Step Five: Taking Your Dog on a Walk

Good news! Your dog has been trained successfully to respect your wireless fence boundaries. The last step is to teach your dog to leave the safety zone with your supervision, in order to go on a walk.

Remove the Receiver Collar

Before you take your dog on a walk, you need to be sure to remove the receiver collar. This is extremely important. Even if you have the collar turned off and your dog won’t receive any static correction, the collar still needs to be removed. The idea is that you want your dog to associate the absence of the collar with his ability to leave the safety zone.

Select a Spot

It is also important that when it is time to take your dog on a walk that you choose a specific spot to always exit and enter. An example would be the driveway. Without exception, you need to always go in and out of your chosen spot.

Attaching a Leash

When you lead your dog out of the containment area, you must attach a regular collar and a leash. The leash should be held firmly at all times when you are leading the dog out of the safety zone. This is because it is important for your dog to understand they can only leave the containment area when on a leash an accompanied by a human.

Leading Your Dog

Lead your dog with the leash, exiting the safety zone through your predetermined location. In the beginning, it is very possible that your dog will be resistant to leaving. If this happens, let your dog know he isn’t doing anything wrong by saying, “OK” in a calm, yet firm voice. Don’t carry your dog across the line. Make sure you can lead him out of the containment area by his own will. When your dog does leave the area, show him appreciation and give him a treat. Don’t forget to come back into the safety zone through the exact same location where you left.

After a couple of days, you will notice that your dog will become comfortable with the process. When this is the case, there will no longer be a need to reward your dog with treats upon venturing out.

Leaving by Car

Just like you can take your dog out on a walk by driving it in your car in earlier training phases, you can still do this after your dog has been trained. As long as your dog can get used to leaving the Pet Area on his own, providing he is accompanied by a person with a leash attached and when he is not wearing the receiver collar, then all will be well.

Removing the Training Flags

Now that all of the previous training steps have been completed, it is time to remove the flags. You wouldn’t want them to keep sticking out of the ground forever.

If everything has been done correctly thus far, your dog is now respecting the containment boundaries. In addition to this, your dog should have learned to leave the safety zone with you and a leash on him, when going out for a walk.

Now all that there is to do is get rid of the flags. Here is how you can do it.

  • Wait until 4 weeks have passed after the final phase of your dog training has been completed, to make sure that your dog has learned all the training.
  • Start to remove the flags, beginning with every second flag around the border, and then wait for 5 days.
  • Take out every other flag from what is left. Wait for another 5 days.
  • Remove all of the remaining flags.

Good news. Your dog is now able to play around safely in your yard!

What Should I Do If My Dog Starts to Leave the Safety Zone When the Flags Are Gone?

If at any time during the flag removal process your dog goes outside of the boundary and begins to ignore the correction, put the flags back around the border. Follow this with another 10 days of training, with the help of Steps 2 and 3 from the training guide. With that being said, this situation only happens very rarely, so there is no need to worry.

Can’t all of the training flags be removed at one time?

While you certainly can do this, it is a better idea to take things slow when it comes to dog training. If you take the flags down abruptly, your dog might become confused, leading to undesirable results. You have already spent a lot of time training your dog to respect the boundaries, so there shouldn’t be a need to rush taking out the flags at this point.

Step Two: Training With Static Correction: Part 1

The Goal: It is time to introduce static correction, in order to make the dog aware that there is a consequence involved if they try and cross the boundary. Before you go ahead with this training phase, be sure that you have gone through Step 1: Boundary Introduction.

Important: Not more than 1 static correction should be given in a row. Be sure to take a break of a few hours before trying again.

This training phase should last for one week, regardless of the dog.

Selecting the Right Correction Level

In order for your dog to be corrected, you will need to set it on one of the available correction levels. To begin with, you need to set the collar on 1. As needed, move the correction level up one level at a time. Generally speaking, here is what dogs of various sizes usually require.

  1. If you have a small dog, level 1 or 2 may be enough.
  2. If you have a medium-sized dog, try level 3.
  3. If the dog is large, level 4 or 5 may be needed.

It is also important to understand what your dog’s pain threshold is. Perhaps you have a small dog that is quite pain resistant. He may need a medium or high static correction setting even though he is little.

It is usually a better idea to start with a setting that is a little too low than a little too high. For example, if you start out with it set on a 5 for a small dog, you may cause him to be so scared of the boundary that he won’t even want to come outside.

Putting the Collar On

Place the collar around the neck of your dog, making sure that it is not too tight. However, you do need to make sure that the static correction points are coming in direct contact with your dog’s neck, without digging into it. If the probes are not coming into contact with the dog’s skin, he will not feel the static correction. Remember that part of this may involve selecting the right set of contact points. If your dog has longer or thicker hair, you may need to use the longer contact points. In either case, you may need to trim your dog’s hair around the contact points so that they are making a proper connection.

The main reason for failure in delivering a static correction is a poorly-fitting collar. So, if you feel that there is no correction being delivered, begin by checking the probes, how tight the collar is and if there is too much hair around the neck area.

Also, remember that you should only be training one dog at a time.

Training Your Dog: Step by Step

Step One: Just as in the previous training step, the wireless receiver collar should be put on your dog’s neck, making sure that the points are coming in contact with the skin but not digging in. Put on a second collar, attach a long leash to it, and then slowly start to walk around the safety zone with him, staying close to the boundary but not pulling your dog or trying to get him to cross the boundary. Simply wait for the dog to attempt to cross the boundary on its own.

Step Two: Once your dog has gotten too close to the fence boundary and you hear the beep, do nothing yet. Give it another second or two, because this is how long it will typically take the receiver collar to begin applying the static correction.

Step Three: When you observe your dog’s behavior, you can see the static correction is being applied by looking for the following: he may flinch slightly, lower his head or begin to scratch lightly around the receiver collar. When this happens, it is important that you do not go and comfort your dog, as this is counterproductive. Remember this, the static correction shouldn’t be seen as a big deal. It feels like running across the carpet and touching a doorknob.

Step Four: When the static correction is delivered, say “No, no, no” in a calm, yet firm voice. Use the leash to strongly and quickly pull your dog away from the boundary line, until you are about 5 feet away from the flags and the collar tone can’t be heard anymore. This is when you should praise your dog and reward the dog with his favorite treat.

Step Five: This procedure should be repeated 3 to 4 times a day. Remember to play with your dog for a bit, before and after each training session. Each time your dog is shocked, it is best to take a 3 to 4 hour break each time. He shouldn’t be corrected twice in a short period of time, as this may cause him to stress out, especially if he is a timid dog.

Important to Note: Your dog may learn to retreat quickly from the flags, even before you apply a static correction, which is ideal. If your dog approaches the training flags and suddenly stops in his tracks, moving away from the flags, this should be seen as a great step forward. If this happens, reward and praise your dog more than you normally would.

Now, it is time to proceed to Part #2 of Static Correction Training, where we will talk about common problems you might face during the process.



Step Two: Static Correction Training: Part 2

After a week of training, what if my dog doesn’t respect the boundary?

If you have followed all of the training steps, after 1 week, you should expect to have great results. However, in rare cases there are dogs with a stubborn personality. Sometimes more training is required. After a week has passed, if your dog is not respecting the boundary after a static correction, an extra 3 to 7 days should do the trick.

It may also be helpful to troubleshoot some issues that may be causing an issue.

The Collar May Not Fit Properly

If your dog is not showing any reaction when he approaches the boundary, it is likely that the contact points on the collar are not really touching the neck, and the correction isn’t being administered. This may be the reason why your dog is not learning to stay away from the boundary, as he isn’t experiencing any consequences from crossing it. Simply pay attention to your dog to see if he is reacting. If he isn’t, try tightening the collar a little.

Your Dog May be Overstressed

Your dog may be overstressed if you notice:

  • His tail is tucked between his legs as he gets close to the training flags
  • He refuses to go outdoors with the receiver collar on his neck
  • He doesn’t care about playing and seems less active than usual

If the static correction is being delivered, but it is not enough to stop your dog from crossing the boundary, there is a chance that the correction level isn’t set high enough. Try bumping up the correction level a notch to see if that changes anything.

Conversely, if your dog is showing symptoms of stress, the static correction level should be slightly reduced. If this doesn’t solve the problem, reduce the amount of times you train your dog to twice a day at the most. To help put your dog at ease, be sure to increase the playtime both before and after the training session.

Keep the Mood Fun

Your dog training session needs playtime before and after, in order for it to be successful. Your dog needs time to relax during both times, as training can be a little stressful for some dogs. Just spending 5 or 10 minutes to have fun will greatly assist the process.

The next thing you need to do with your dog is Distraction Training.

Step Three: Distraction Training: Part 1

Identifying the Goal: On a daily basis, your dog will be faced with different distractions that will get him excited. This may hinder him from being able to remember everything you have taught him about the fence. This is the point of distraction training, to fix this problem before it happens. Before going forward, be sure to read Step #1 Boundary Training and Step #2 Static Correction Training.

It is very important to never call your dog or use commands to get him to come up to the boundary line.

How long should I expect this training phase to last?

In general, this stage has no time limit. How long it takes will depend on a few different factors:

  • Your dog’s temperament
  • How your dog has done so far with the training
  • What type of distractions your dog is up against

You should expect this phase to last at least a few weeks. Please remember, you should never have your dog receive a static correction more than once every couple of hours. By the time this phase has been completed, your dog will stay within the contained play zone even if a distraction occurs.

Preparing for Training

Everything that applied to the prior training phases applies to the Distraction Training as well.

  1. Be certain that the dog’s receiver collar fits properly. It should be snug, but not too tight. You should be able to fit a finger between the probes and your dog’s skin.
  2. Be certain that the static correction level is set at the right level, based on what you decided was appropriate during the previous training sessions.
  3. To avoid unnecessary distractions, only train one dog at a time.
  4. Don’t stress out your dog by training him too much.
  5. Remember to always reward your dog when he does what you expect of him.
  6. Keep things fun and positive. Enjoy playtime with your dog for a few minutes before and after each training session. This will help him to relax and focus on learning all the new things being taught.

Distraction Training: Step by Step

Step One: Start by fitting your dog with both the wireless fence collar and a second collar with a long leash on it. Do something you think will distract your dog, such as throwing a ball across the boundary line. Try to get your dog to become excited as possible, to see if he will cross the line.

Step Two: Should your dog follow the distraction, but stop before crossing the boundary line, reward him with a treat and lots of praise.

Step Three: If your dog follows the distraction and breeches the boundary line, wait 3 seconds to see if the dog will come back on his own or not. If he doesn’t come back on his own, pull him back into the safety area with the leash. Praise him and give him a treat anyway.

Next, continue to Part 2 of Distraction Training, where we identify the most common distractions your dog might come up against and train him to resist them.

Step Three: Distraction Training: Part 2

Make sure you have read Part #1 of Distraction Training before you do the following.

Examples of Distraction Training

Listed below are some of the most common distractions faced by dogs:

Tennis Ball

Many dogs enjoy chasing a tennis ball. If this describes your dog, do the following:

  • Begin by playing a game of catch with your dog in the safety zone.
  • Let your dog get very excited and energetic, which might take a few minutes, depending on the dog.
  • After your dog has become excited, throw the ball, letting it cross the wireless fence boundary by a few feet.
  • Look for your dog’s reaction and act accordingly, from the steps outlined in the previous section.

Repeat this procedure a few times a day for as long as it takes for your dog to learn to resist the temptation on his own.

Family Members

Dogs commonly enjoy running after family members, especially if it has been a few hours since they have seen them. Here is what you need to do to get your dog to avoid trying to break the boundary when they see people.

  • Select a family member that your dog enjoys playing with.
  • When that family member comes back home after a few hours of being away, ask them to call the dog out into the safety zone.
  • The dog will most likely run towards the person. At this point, they should play with them for about 30 seconds, in order to get the dog excited.
  • After the dog is excited, the family member should begin to move away from the dog, pay the dog no attention and cross the area where the boundary flags have been posted.
  • Most likely, the dog will follow them out.
  • Once the dog walks up to the boundary flags, observe his behavior and act according to what was outlined in the previous session.

It is not necessary to follow this exact formula. You know best how your dog reacts to family members, so do what you feel is best. The most important thing is that you need to make sure the dog becomes excited, and then test how he reacts when he gets close to the flags.

Other Dogs

This is how you can carry out distraction training to make sure your dog will ignore other dogs who are on the other side of the border.

  • Have a friend walk his dog on a leash, just outside of the boundary flags.
  • Check your dog’s behavior and follow the steps presented earlier.

If you would like to try something else, begin by having both you and your friend’s dogs play together inside of the safety zone. Once your dog becomes excited, ask your friend to walk his dog out of the safety zone and beyond the boundary flags. Most likely, your dog will follow your friend’s dog. Observe his reaction and act accordingly.


Many dogs love running behind the car when it pulls out of the garage. At this point, you probably understand how to carry out distraction training.

  • The driver should play with the dog for a few minutes in the safety zone, to get the dog excited.
  • Now, the driver should get into the car and slowly pull out, going beyond the boundary flags.
  • The dog will probably follow the car to a certain point. Check his behavior and act accordingly.

Logically, there will be other possible distractions, like birds, squirrels and cats. If you are concerned about any of those where you live, try to include them somehow into your distraction training, following the same instructions used in previous distractions.

Now that you are finished with distraction training, you are ready for the next stage of training, Unleashed Supervision.

Step Four: Supervised Training: Off-Leash

Before taking the leash off of your dog, be sure to follow steps 1, 2 and 3 of the Dog Training Guide. At this point, it really shouldn’t be called training, as you have already accomplished this.

To Prepare for Supervised Off-Leash Training

In this case, preparing is very simple as there is no need to attach a leash. Just be sure that the collar fits correctly and that the right static correction level is being used. Like always, you need to make sure the receiver probes are coming in contact with the skin on your dog’s neck, without digging into his skin. This is important so that the collar is able to deliver the correction.

Allow Your Dog to Run Loose

Simply remove the leash and let your dog run around. Your dog should not be left completely alone at this point. Stay in the yard and keep your eye on what he is doing. In this stage, you should not be trying to distract your dog to test him. Right now, you are simply an observer.

Begin with 20 minute supervised off-leash sessions, and then a few hours spent inside of the house. Three to five sessions a day is ideal.

If Your Dog Is Staying Within the Boundaries

During the first day of off-leash supervision, if your dog never leaves the safety zone, you may choose to extend the duration of each training session to 30 minutes on the second day of training. Each day, you can extend your dog’s off-leash time, providing he doesn’t try and cross the line. Adding about 15 minutes each day to his sessions should work nicely.

If Your Dog Is Breaching the Boundaries

If at any time during this stage of the training process your dog crosses the line, walk your dog back into the containment area. Remember to remove the receiver collar so that your dog won’t get corrected on his way back in.

Now, you will need to go back to Step 2: Static Correction Training. Spend about 3 or 4 days training your dog, or as long as it takes to make sure he is responding to the static correction and not crossing the boundaries you have set for him.

Something to Remember: Whenever your dog breeches the boundary, the first thing you should be checking is:

  1. Are the probes making contact with your dog’s skin?
  2. Is the receiver collar working properly? Are the batteries depleted?

Before you do anything else, it is important to answer these two questions first.

If Your Dog Got Distracted and Crossed the Line

Begin by figuring out what distracted your dog. Next, refer to Step 3: Distraction Training and follow the steps outlined there.

What Is Next?

After a couple of supervised off-leash training has passed and your dog hasn’t crossed the boundaries, it is time to move to the final step of the training process.


Introducing Your Dog to the Boundary

About the Goal: During the first step of the dog training process, you will be introducing your dog to the containment boundaries, and teaching him to respect them. The idea is he will turn and retreat when he is supposed to, without receiving a static correction. Before you begin, you should be sure of the following:

  • You should have your training flags placed along the boundary line, about 5 to 10 feet apart from each other.
  • The static correction delivery on the collar receiver should be disabled. Depending on the model, you may only need to set the collar on “1,” which is an audible tone only. On some models, you change the collar setting on the transmitter itself. For a collar that doesn’t have this option, you would just need to remove the collar’s battery.
  • Will you be training more than one dog? If this is the case, you need to know that you should train each dog separately. This is so that you can give each one the attention they deserve. In addition to this, training several dogs at the same time could cause them to distract each other, making it difficult to focus on the training.

How Often Should I Train?

Depending on your dog’s temperament, the boundary introduction phase should last from about 5 to 7 days. If your dog is energetic and adventurous, it could take a bit longer than this. In any case, it should never go below 5 days. Spending 15 minutes for each session, the daily regimen should exist of 3 training sessions.

Keeping it Fun

Plan on spending about 10 minutes before and after each training session playing with your dog. This is because it is important to keep your dog happy and in a good mood throughout his training. When you are consistent with playtime, the less stressed your dog will be, and the quicker you will see great results from your training sessions. Be sure to have your dog’s favorite toy on hand for playtime.

Taking it Step by Step

Step One: Begin by properly fitting the receiver collar around your dog’s neck. Be sure to make sure it is snug, but not too tight. If you are able to fit a finger between the receiver probes and your dog’s skin, it is fitted correctly. Make sure that the collar is set on an audible tone only.

Step Two: Fit a second collar around your dog’s neck, and put a leash on it. You should never attach a leash to the fence receiver collar, as it will cause the probes to dig into your dog’s neck.

Step Three: Walk around with your dog on the leash. Very slowly, approach the boundary of the wireless dog fence. Be sure to not force your dog to cross the line. Instead, wait for your dog to do it on his own. As soon as you hear the receiver collar start to beep, this is what you should do:

  1. Pull on the leash firmly, and force your dog to retreat from the boundary area, while you say, “No, no, no!” in a very firm tone.
  2. Once your dog is out of the boundary area and the receiver is no longer beeping, pet your dog lovingly, give him praise and a treat.

Step Four: Slowly approach another boundary training flag and try to cross the boundary. After the collar begins to beep, repeat the instructions outlined in Step Three, above. Keep doing this for about 15 minutes, and then be sure to play with your dog when you are done training.

Note: At any point during your training session, if your dog tries to cross the boundary line, even though the beep on the collar is sounding and you are pulling the leash, respond by shaking one of the flags while you firmly say, “No, no, no!” The idea is to make sure that your dog understands that the flags are bad. Pull the dog back into the safety zone and make sure to give it praise when the collar’s alarm stops beeping.

What to Expect

After the first 5 to 7 days has passed, you are likely to start seeing your dog retreat all by himself as soon as he hears the beep on the collar, without you even having to pull on the leash. Be sure and praise your dog when this happens. Depending on the temperament of your dog, you may see this change as early as the first day of training.

After a full week of consistent training, if you don’t notice any change in your dog’s behavior at all, not to worry. There is no need to extend the duration of this first phase. Just go ahead and move on to Step #2, Introduction to Static Correction.

What About If I Want to Walk My Dog?

  1. Take the wireless fence receiver collar off of your dog.
  2. If you are able to lift your dog, lift him up and move him across the boundary lines.
  3. Should your dog be too heavy, have him jump into the car and drive him outside the containment area.

What If You Are Unable to Hear the Collar Beeping?

If you live near a relatively busy street, it may be difficult for you to hear the beep, even if your dog can hear it. If this is the case, what you should do is turn the collar around on your dog’s neck, so that the receiver is located on the back of his neck, rather than underneath his jaw. If you do this, you will be able to see the LED light flash on the collar, each time the alarm goes off.

Your Mood During the Training Process

You should remain relaxed at all times, never stressing out or scaring your dog at all. Patience is key. Don’t forget to give your dog praise each time he goes away from the flags, no matter whether he does this on his own or if you have to help him. When you are walking around and approaching the wireless boundary, don’t look directly at your dog. Simply walk very slowly and keep looking ahead.

Next, it is time to continue forward with Step 2 of your dog training process: Introducing Static Correction.