Step Two: Training With Static Correction: Part 1
The Goal: It is time to introduce static correction, in order to make the dog aware that there is a consequence involved if they try and cross the boundary. Before you go ahead with this training phase, be sure that you have gone through Step 1: Boundary Introduction.
Important: Not more than 1 static correction should be given in a row. Be sure to take a break of a few hours before trying again.
This training phase should last for one week, regardless of the dog.
Selecting the Right Correction Level
In order for your dog to be corrected, you will need to set it on one of the available correction levels. To begin with, you need to set the collar on 1. As needed, move the correction level up one level at a time. Generally speaking, here is what dogs of various sizes usually require.
- If you have a small dog, level 1 or 2 may be enough.
- If you have a medium-sized dog, try level 3.
- If the dog is large, level 4 or 5 may be needed.
It is also important to understand what your dog’s pain threshold is. Perhaps you have a small dog that is quite pain resistant. He may need a medium or high static correction setting even though he is little.
It is usually a better idea to start with a setting that is a little too low than a little too high. For example, if you start out with it set on a 5 for a small dog, you may cause him to be so scared of the boundary that he won’t even want to come outside.
Putting the Collar On
Place the collar around the neck of your dog, making sure that it is not too tight. However, you do need to make sure that the static correction points are coming in direct contact with your dog’s neck, without digging into it. If the probes are not coming into contact with the dog’s skin, he will not feel the static correction. Remember that part of this may involve selecting the right set of contact points. If your dog has longer or thicker hair, you may need to use the longer contact points. In either case, you may need to trim your dog’s hair around the contact points so that they are making a proper connection.
The main reason for failure in delivering a static correction is a poorly-fitting collar. So, if you feel that there is no correction being delivered, begin by checking the probes, how tight the collar is and if there is too much hair around the neck area.
Also, remember that you should only be training one dog at a time.
Training Your Dog: Step by Step
Step One: Just as in the previous training step, the wireless receiver collar should be put on your dog’s neck, making sure that the points are coming in contact with the skin but not digging in. Put on a second collar, attach a long leash to it, and then slowly start to walk around the safety zone with him, staying close to the boundary but not pulling your dog or trying to get him to cross the boundary. Simply wait for the dog to attempt to cross the boundary on its own.
Step Two: Once your dog has gotten too close to the fence boundary and you hear the beep, do nothing yet. Give it another second or two, because this is how long it will typically take the receiver collar to begin applying the static correction.
Step Three: When you observe your dog’s behavior, you can see the static correction is being applied by looking for the following: he may flinch slightly, lower his head or begin to scratch lightly around the receiver collar. When this happens, it is important that you do not go and comfort your dog, as this is counterproductive. Remember this, the static correction shouldn’t be seen as a big deal. It feels like running across the carpet and touching a doorknob.
Step Four: When the static correction is delivered, say “No, no, no” in a calm, yet firm voice. Use the leash to strongly and quickly pull your dog away from the boundary line, until you are about 5 feet away from the flags and the collar tone can’t be heard anymore. This is when you should praise your dog and reward the dog with his favorite treat.
Step Five: This procedure should be repeated 3 to 4 times a day. Remember to play with your dog for a bit, before and after each training session. Each time your dog is shocked, it is best to take a 3 to 4 hour break each time. He shouldn’t be corrected twice in a short period of time, as this may cause him to stress out, especially if he is a timid dog.
Important to Note: Your dog may learn to retreat quickly from the flags, even before you apply a static correction, which is ideal. If your dog approaches the training flags and suddenly stops in his tracks, moving away from the flags, this should be seen as a great step forward. If this happens, reward and praise your dog more than you normally would.
Now, it is time to proceed to Part #2 of Static Correction Training, where we will talk about common problems you might face during the process.